My name is Jo, and in 2020 I moved to France with my husband, Brian. From our move to France, to running our B&B, my blog, which you can read below, is a diary of ‘Our French Adventure’. I share short stories about the Champagne region, and its people, and the life we have embraced here.
Weather permitting
Every couple of weeks the small village of Landreville has a local movie night. This weeks film was ‘Indiana Jones’ and the something or another. It was due to be an open air showing, weather permitting. I just love getting the opportunity to view a movie outside, so when our guests suggested we join them, we both thought it was a marvellous idea.
Unfortunately though, the weather did not permit, and we ended up in the ‘Maison pour tous’ a delightful little community hall.
It was a funny little evening, I sat next to a Boston terrier who spent the evening snoring. We didn’t make it to the end of the film, as it was over 2 and a half hours long, and quite a lot to take in for a movie dubbed badly into french. But it was a memorable evening and very enjoyable.
What shall we do tomorrow?
It’s been wonderful having our guests enjoy some relaxing family days by the pool, the day time temperatures were low thirties, the evenings a very pleasant low twenties, so just right for relaxing.
When the sun goes down and our guests return to the house Brian nips up there to close it for the night, making sure it’s clean and ready for the next day.
It’s a beautiful time of day, so still and quiet, with the crickets giving a last little chirp before sunset and the sun just skimming the tree line.
Their seven night stay is drawing to an end, and everything will change again. What shall we do tomorrow?
Course de caisse de savon
We were not really certain what to expect, but I’d seen a small advert on the main road last week that the little village of Meurville were having a ‘caisse de savon’ on Sunday. I’d translated this as a ‘soap box race’. ‘Brilliant’ I thought ‘how good could that be?’
I’d mentioned it to Brian, who had not been quite so excited as me, and also to our guests, in the hope they’d find it a quaint local charm.
We arrived at the village around 2pm, after being diverted from our usual approach to the village. This made me even more excited. We parked up, and a young lad directed us along the side of the road, telling us to be aware of the tractors.
As we headed up through the village we could here a voice chatting away over the loudspeaker. We understood the gist of it, that the cars were getting ready.
The crowds started to build. Not really crowds as such, but there were plenty of spectators already gathered behind the barriers. Brian had given me specific instructions that if we were standing on a bend we needed to be behind the hay bales.
We found a great viewing spot at the last bend. It was all looking very professional, in a soap box sort of way.
The suspense was definitely building, and as we saw the green flag waving, the crowd encouraging and the commentator getting terribly excited we saw the first competitor rounding the corner. Hoorah…the crowd cheering and clapping, he came tearing down he hill, shaking the little kart across the finish line and leaving the spectators ready for the next one.
Ratatouille
I have to say I’d never really been much of a fan of ratatouille, I always found it quite watery and lacking in flavour. But if you make it in season, with good succulent ingredients, it is delicious. Having beautifully ripe tomatoes, fresh courgettes, sweet aubergine and crisp peppers makes all the difference.
Although it takes a little while to cook all the vegetables through properly, once you’ve cut everything up it really looks after itself, cooking away on top of the stove. The real trick though is to check it periodically and wipe away any water collected on the lid. It’s a great vegetable dish to make ahead of when it’s going to be eaten.
Recipe:
2 good glugs of Extra Virgin Olive Oil (about 30ml)
2 shallots or 1 large onion, peeled and diced
2-3 garlic cloves, left whole and unskinned
2 large courgettes
1 large aubergine
2 peppers, red or green
6 ripe tomatoes - medium sized
A few sprigs of thyme
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground black pepper - to your taste
1 tbsp runny honey
fresh basil leaves, for garnish
Prepare the vegetables, first wash everything then start chopping. Dice the courgettes and aubergine into roughly 1.25cm cubes. After you’ve deseeded the peppers cut the flesh into squares (1.25cm). Cut the tomatoes in quarters, discard the seeds and cut into 1.25cm cubes also.
In a heavy bottomed pot, heat up the olive oil on a medium heat. Cook the onion, or shallot, for 2-3 minutes until glistening. Add the peppers and aubergine and cook for 7-8 minutes. Add the courgettes.
Now add the tomatoes, and garlic which you leave in its skin, thyme, bay leaf and seasoning. Stir carefully to mix.
The heat needs to be a low to medium temperature. Cover the pan and simmer for an hour. Occasionally, take the lid off to check it, and carefully wipe away any build-up of condensation on the inner lid before replacing it.
If after an hour it appears too watery, continue to cook with the lid off for another 10-20 minutes.
When you are happy with the consistency add the honey and stir in. Now adjust the seasoning if needed with salt and pepper. Serve not too hot, with fresh basil leaves sprinkled on the top. Scrumptious.
Whatever the weather
It has been quite an unsettled few days as far as the weather is concerned. We have had some usual blue skies, but also some quite lengthy spells of rain. Which have been very refreshing and great for the garden and vineyards.
The hedgerows are flourishing with little flowers, I think some would call them weeds, but I see them in a pretty little vase.
We’d nipped into Bar-sur-Seine to get a few bits from the market, as we had guests arriving today. The lawn desperately needed mowing after all the rain. It was looking succulent and green, but a little wild. Brian did a very quick mow, which wasn’t as good as he’d liked, but it made it look neater for our guests arrival. We will need to do the slope next week when the weather dries out.
For now though we were ready to welcome our guests, whatever the weather.
Musée de la resistance
It always feels very quiet when our guests leave.
On Tuesday four of them set off on their trips back to the UK. For some they took the motorway, just a four hour trip to Calais. Others like to take the back roads to experience some of the smaller towns and villages.
Two of our guests however were staying another day, so we decided to visit the small village of Mussy which is home to the ‘Musée de la resistance’. It was recently renovated, and houses an interesting collection of artefacts from the period.
Some depict the time of the events with their style and design, although the graphics can be quite disturbing. Seeing the nazi emblems on everyday objects, instead of on a banner in a movie, makes it very real. Other artefacts are more human, and evoke a very different feeling. I do find some of the items quite chilling.
The information boards in the museum are all in french, so a good translation app can be useful. Our French is getting better, but we would not be able to fully understand all the information which is shared, and the detail of the stories that are based in and around the area, without a little help.
This is the translation we were able to perform on our phones using google translate for the poster above, it tells the story of the Maquis Montcalm, a resistance group in our area.
In the forest just near Mussy, where the Maquis Montcalm hid during the war, is this memorial to the resistance, and to the lives that were lost. It makes for a fitting end to the museum visit.
Cobwebs
Our plan for Monday was to sweep away the cobwebs of the festival with a nice, refreshing stroll by the lakes. So we breakfasted early and jumped in the cars to head out to the lac d’Orient, a wonderful collection of man-made lakes just 30 minutes from us.
We had done this walk before, on our own, we decided to do it in reverse, as we thought it would make for a better route. That meant we only had a short walk before we found the beautiful hide that has been built for twitchers.
It really is the most spectacular view.
The walk then took us into the forest of the Templars, where our friends were trying to spot the wildlife.
At the end of a very pleasant walk there was just time for a quick selfie before heading to one of the many cafés and restaurants around the lakes for a light lunch that was well deserved.
Sup up
If you ever get the opportunity to visit the champagne festival, it is a fabulous event to experience especially with a group of friends, you cannot help but enjoy it. Every year it is in a different set of villages across the Aube, each offering their own character and charm to the event.
Celles-sur-Ource as one of the largest village grouping of champagne producers across the Aube put on a marvellous festival, full of fun, creativity and a joy.
I thought I’d share a few pics showing our madder moments. Sorry all…
Day two - la route du champagne en fete
It was a lazy start to our second day. Over a relaxed breakfast we decided we would try to park near to where we had the day before. We all jumped into the two cars and set off for the spot, however somehow we got split up. After being pushed by the gendarmes to use another car park we were well and truly separated. A couple of text messages later and the plan was to meet up at number 3.
The ‘carnet de degustation’, which is your ticket to the event, has numbered pages for each Champagne house. It tells you a bit about the producer, and about the cuveé you are going to taste. To get your glass topped up with Champagne you hand over a perforated ticket from your booklet, and your glass, to one of the volunteers serving behind the bar, and voila.
The day seemed to whiz by, as we enjoyed the Champagnes and music from a variety of bands and singers, with everyone in a party mood.
One of the producers had decided to set his stall up in the vineyard, so we also enjoyed a short stroll up the hill to where they were serving it.
The views were spectacular, and it was good to be drinking amongst the grapes
What a superb weekend with friends and Champagne!🥂
The Visitor
We’ve gone through a period of unseasonably wet weather for the last week, but it hasn’t dampened the summer mood, as it’s been a rather comfortable temperature. As long as you remember to go out with a suitable piece of waterproof clothing for when the rain comes it’s actually been quite refreshing.
Whilst waiting for a break in one of the light rainfalls before heading out, an unexpected visitor made an appearance in our hallway. A little frog hopped onto the marble floor, and then proceeded to hop across the tiles. We watched it for a while, then decided he needed to be steered back into the garden. A few encouraging waves later and he leapt out into the rain again.
He did look quite perplexed by it all.
Barbie
On the Saturday evening of the festival we decided we’d have a barbecue and invite a few local friends over to join us. Everyone staying with us joined in getting ready for the evening, setting up the tables and chairs in the garden, hanging up the lights and preparing the food and drinks area.
We’d already prepared some nibbles to have with drinks, some cheese gougéres and some spinach and feta parcels. We just needed to get them cooked. Pam had made some blinis, which we topped with cream cheese, a local smoked trout and some basil. The food and wine soon brought everyone together and our evening had begun.
For the barbecue we cooked marinated poitrine de porc, merguez and porc sausages, along with yellow pepper and halloumi skewers with a ras el hanout and honey spiced marinade. There was a variety of salads; watermelon and feta, a french styled lentil salad, new potatoes and green beans with a caper vinaigrette, coleslaw and a dried fruit bulgur wheat salad. It was all rather tasty. For dessert we did a chia coconut pot with chopped mango.
All the tables we had put out around the garden allowed for happy little gatherings of friends and friends to be.
It was a really wonderful evening.
Day one - la route du champagne 2023
We had no real plan on the order of which to do the tastings, we just knew we wanted to try and do 9 each day. Having all the producers in just one village made it much easier to achieve this year, normally you need to drive between the villages, which does somewhat slow the pace of the tastings down. Not such a bad thing.
Im always cheered by what a great, well planned event Cap C and all the volunteers put on. They ensure there are lots of food choices across the various producers. Something to just nibble on, whilst enjoying a glass or two, or nine of Champagne, or something more substantial from one of the local food trucks placed around the different venues.
And I have to say ‘A decent nibble mid tasting is very welcome!’
la route du champagne en fête, arrival
Festival day had come, and we’d decided to head into Celles-sur-Ource around 11am. We were not sure where they would be getting us to park, although we could see they had allocated the airfield as a parking area. Rather than head up there, we chanced our luck and took one of the back roads in, where we managed to park along the side of the road, with just a five minute walk into the village.
I’m always amazed at how organised they are at these events. Even though thousands of people descend on one small village, they still manage to keep the traffic moving. I think the one way system really does help.
We made our way on foot towards our first producer, and the day started!
Blanc de blanc
Yesterday our friends from the UK arrived for this year’s Champagne festival. We’d nipped into Bar-sur-Seine to the tourist office to buy their tickets for them in readiness. We haven’t been together as a group for over 5 years so there’s a lot to catch up on.
We started our Champagne tasting journey by a visit to our local producer, Robert GrandPierre. There is another British family who have a holiday home in our village, so we asked if their group wanted to join us. It was a fabulous tasting of their blanc de blanc, réserve, prestige and finally their rosé de saignée. All are wonderfully made wines, but a favourite of ours at the moment is their blanc de blanc, 100% Chardonnay. It was quite a happy, and very chatty little excursion.
Last minute prep
Wednesday morning. Our friends from the Uk were arriving on Thursday, and we had a few last minute jobs to get done.
We wanted to nip over to Meurville to buy some of Jérôme’s Champagne, so we did that first thing. Of course we needed to try some, it would be rude not to. What a way to start a busy day!
We then nipped into Bar-sur-Aube to buy a few last bits at the Leclerc supermarket, before heading home to put the final touches to the house. On the way back we pulled over to cut some greenery and cow parsley to use in the house.
My flowers from last week were now all looking very tired, so I wanted to refresh those that had a little longer in them, and arrange some additional vases to fill the house.
I find real pleasure in creating different arrangements, and using different containers. You don’t always need lots of flowers, sometimes just having a few feature flowers will create a big enough impact.
Second ‘Été Gourmand’
Last weekend was the second year of the ‘Summer gourmet’ festival held in Les Riceys, a pretty village about a 20 minute drive from us.
We had enjoyed a great day out last year there with some friends, so we suggested to our guests that they may want to visit it. They thought this was a great idea, and spent a very enjoyable morning wandering around buying some tasty treats to take home.
On Sunday, after our guests had departed to continue their tour of Champagne, discoving the northern region near Reims, we decided we would head over to the festival to get some lunch and have a little look. It did not disappoint, we enjoyed a very tasty portion of roasted Bresse chicken with potatoes for lunch, before taking a look at the stalls.
I bought some olive tapenade, and we got to try some deliciously salty Roquefort cheese, which was 18 months matured, and beautifully soft. We enjoyed a slice of that with some bread when we returned home. What a splendid afternoon.
Sleepy sunday
I’ve been meaning to drop Brian off to take a picture of the beautiful sunflowers just outside of our village for over a week now, but it somehow hasn’t happened. So whilst out on his morning bread run he pulled in and did it himself.
They’re unfortunately just past their best now, but it was a very sleepy Sunday, so maybe they were just resting their heads a little bit longer.
A field of sunflowers always makes me smile.
Deep purple
One of our guests was celebrating their birthday this weekend, so any excuse for me to fill the house with flowers.
I’d bought some beautiful long stemmed irises, which were a gorgeous deep purple colour.
I then asked for a mélange, I just love that word, it means mixture, so the flower lady carefully picked me out an assorted bunch. She was not phased though that by this time the queue of shoppers behind me was building. Not that they minded either, merrily chattering away catching up on the gossip.
For me, I just smile, pay my ten euros and thank the flower lady for my now fully laden arms.
I’ve managed to put vases in both bedrooms, the landing, salle à manger and salon, all absolutely delightful.
Know your onions
The garlic lady was at the market this morning, so I bought a bunch, along with some shallots. I’m making a tomato and goats cheese tart for dinner tomorrow, so it will be nice to use some fresh shallots, and I always need garlic.
I also bought some super fresh ingredients for a ratatouille. I’m really looking forward to making that, such a fresh and fragrant dish.
