My name is Jo, and in 2020 I moved to France with my husband, Brian. From our move to France, to running our B&B, my blog, which you can read below, is a diary of ‘Our French Adventure’. I share short stories about the Champagne region, and its people, and the life we have embraced here.
Whatever the weather
It has been quite an unsettled few days as far as the weather is concerned. We have had some usual blue skies, but also some quite lengthy spells of rain. Which have been very refreshing and great for the garden and vineyards.
The hedgerows are flourishing with little flowers, I think some would call them weeds, but I see them in a pretty little vase.
We’d nipped into Bar-sur-Seine to get a few bits from the market, as we had guests arriving today. The lawn desperately needed mowing after all the rain. It was looking succulent and green, but a little wild. Brian did a very quick mow, which wasn’t as good as he’d liked, but it made it look neater for our guests arrival. We will need to do the slope next week when the weather dries out.
For now though we were ready to welcome our guests, whatever the weather.
Musée de la resistance
It always feels very quiet when our guests leave.
On Tuesday four of them set off on their trips back to the UK. For some they took the motorway, just a four hour trip to Calais. Others like to take the back roads to experience some of the smaller towns and villages.
Two of our guests however were staying another day, so we decided to visit the small village of Mussy which is home to the ‘Musée de la resistance’. It was recently renovated, and houses an interesting collection of artefacts from the period.
Some depict the time of the events with their style and design, although the graphics can be quite disturbing. Seeing the nazi emblems on everyday objects, instead of on a banner in a movie, makes it very real. Other artefacts are more human, and evoke a very different feeling. I do find some of the items quite chilling.
The information boards in the museum are all in french, so a good translation app can be useful. Our French is getting better, but we would not be able to fully understand all the information which is shared, and the detail of the stories that are based in and around the area, without a little help.
This is the translation we were able to perform on our phones using google translate for the poster above, it tells the story of the Maquis Montcalm, a resistance group in our area.
In the forest just near Mussy, where the Maquis Montcalm hid during the war, is this memorial to the resistance, and to the lives that were lost. It makes for a fitting end to the museum visit.
Cobwebs
Our plan for Monday was to sweep away the cobwebs of the festival with a nice, refreshing stroll by the lakes. So we breakfasted early and jumped in the cars to head out to the lac d’Orient, a wonderful collection of man-made lakes just 30 minutes from us.
We had done this walk before, on our own, we decided to do it in reverse, as we thought it would make for a better route. That meant we only had a short walk before we found the beautiful hide that has been built for twitchers.
It really is the most spectacular view.
The walk then took us into the forest of the Templars, where our friends were trying to spot the wildlife.
At the end of a very pleasant walk there was just time for a quick selfie before heading to one of the many cafés and restaurants around the lakes for a light lunch that was well deserved.
Sup up
If you ever get the opportunity to visit the champagne festival, it is a fabulous event to experience especially with a group of friends, you cannot help but enjoy it. Every year it is in a different set of villages across the Aube, each offering their own character and charm to the event.
Celles-sur-Ource as one of the largest village grouping of champagne producers across the Aube put on a marvellous festival, full of fun, creativity and a joy.
I thought I’d share a few pics showing our madder moments. Sorry all…
Day two - la route du champagne en fete
It was a lazy start to our second day. Over a relaxed breakfast we decided we would try to park near to where we had the day before. We all jumped into the two cars and set off for the spot, however somehow we got split up. After being pushed by the gendarmes to use another car park we were well and truly separated. A couple of text messages later and the plan was to meet up at number 3.
The ‘carnet de degustation’, which is your ticket to the event, has numbered pages for each Champagne house. It tells you a bit about the producer, and about the cuveé you are going to taste. To get your glass topped up with Champagne you hand over a perforated ticket from your booklet, and your glass, to one of the volunteers serving behind the bar, and voila.
The day seemed to whiz by, as we enjoyed the Champagnes and music from a variety of bands and singers, with everyone in a party mood.
One of the producers had decided to set his stall up in the vineyard, so we also enjoyed a short stroll up the hill to where they were serving it.
The views were spectacular, and it was good to be drinking amongst the grapes
What a superb weekend with friends and Champagne!🥂
The Visitor
We’ve gone through a period of unseasonably wet weather for the last week, but it hasn’t dampened the summer mood, as it’s been a rather comfortable temperature. As long as you remember to go out with a suitable piece of waterproof clothing for when the rain comes it’s actually been quite refreshing.
Whilst waiting for a break in one of the light rainfalls before heading out, an unexpected visitor made an appearance in our hallway. A little frog hopped onto the marble floor, and then proceeded to hop across the tiles. We watched it for a while, then decided he needed to be steered back into the garden. A few encouraging waves later and he leapt out into the rain again.
He did look quite perplexed by it all.
Barbie
On the Saturday evening of the festival we decided we’d have a barbecue and invite a few local friends over to join us. Everyone staying with us joined in getting ready for the evening, setting up the tables and chairs in the garden, hanging up the lights and preparing the food and drinks area.
We’d already prepared some nibbles to have with drinks, some cheese gougéres and some spinach and feta parcels. We just needed to get them cooked. Pam had made some blinis, which we topped with cream cheese, a local smoked trout and some basil. The food and wine soon brought everyone together and our evening had begun.
For the barbecue we cooked marinated poitrine de porc, merguez and porc sausages, along with yellow pepper and halloumi skewers with a ras el hanout and honey spiced marinade. There was a variety of salads; watermelon and feta, a french styled lentil salad, new potatoes and green beans with a caper vinaigrette, coleslaw and a dried fruit bulgur wheat salad. It was all rather tasty. For dessert we did a chia coconut pot with chopped mango.
All the tables we had put out around the garden allowed for happy little gatherings of friends and friends to be.
It was a really wonderful evening.
Day one - la route du champagne 2023
We had no real plan on the order of which to do the tastings, we just knew we wanted to try and do 9 each day. Having all the producers in just one village made it much easier to achieve this year, normally you need to drive between the villages, which does somewhat slow the pace of the tastings down. Not such a bad thing.
Im always cheered by what a great, well planned event Cap C and all the volunteers put on. They ensure there are lots of food choices across the various producers. Something to just nibble on, whilst enjoying a glass or two, or nine of Champagne, or something more substantial from one of the local food trucks placed around the different venues.
And I have to say ‘A decent nibble mid tasting is very welcome!’
la route du champagne en fête, arrival
Festival day had come, and we’d decided to head into Celles-sur-Ource around 11am. We were not sure where they would be getting us to park, although we could see they had allocated the airfield as a parking area. Rather than head up there, we chanced our luck and took one of the back roads in, where we managed to park along the side of the road, with just a five minute walk into the village.
I’m always amazed at how organised they are at these events. Even though thousands of people descend on one small village, they still manage to keep the traffic moving. I think the one way system really does help.
We made our way on foot towards our first producer, and the day started!
Blanc de blanc
Yesterday our friends from the UK arrived for this year’s Champagne festival. We’d nipped into Bar-sur-Seine to the tourist office to buy their tickets for them in readiness. We haven’t been together as a group for over 5 years so there’s a lot to catch up on.
We started our Champagne tasting journey by a visit to our local producer, Robert GrandPierre. There is another British family who have a holiday home in our village, so we asked if their group wanted to join us. It was a fabulous tasting of their blanc de blanc, réserve, prestige and finally their rosé de saignée. All are wonderfully made wines, but a favourite of ours at the moment is their blanc de blanc, 100% Chardonnay. It was quite a happy, and very chatty little excursion.
Last minute prep
Wednesday morning. Our friends from the Uk were arriving on Thursday, and we had a few last minute jobs to get done.
We wanted to nip over to Meurville to buy some of Jérôme’s Champagne, so we did that first thing. Of course we needed to try some, it would be rude not to. What a way to start a busy day!
We then nipped into Bar-sur-Aube to buy a few last bits at the Leclerc supermarket, before heading home to put the final touches to the house. On the way back we pulled over to cut some greenery and cow parsley to use in the house.
My flowers from last week were now all looking very tired, so I wanted to refresh those that had a little longer in them, and arrange some additional vases to fill the house.
I find real pleasure in creating different arrangements, and using different containers. You don’t always need lots of flowers, sometimes just having a few feature flowers will create a big enough impact.
Second ‘Été Gourmand’
Last weekend was the second year of the ‘Summer gourmet’ festival held in Les Riceys, a pretty village about a 20 minute drive from us.
We had enjoyed a great day out last year there with some friends, so we suggested to our guests that they may want to visit it. They thought this was a great idea, and spent a very enjoyable morning wandering around buying some tasty treats to take home.
On Sunday, after our guests had departed to continue their tour of Champagne, discoving the northern region near Reims, we decided we would head over to the festival to get some lunch and have a little look. It did not disappoint, we enjoyed a very tasty portion of roasted Bresse chicken with potatoes for lunch, before taking a look at the stalls.
I bought some olive tapenade, and we got to try some deliciously salty Roquefort cheese, which was 18 months matured, and beautifully soft. We enjoyed a slice of that with some bread when we returned home. What a splendid afternoon.
Sleepy sunday
I’ve been meaning to drop Brian off to take a picture of the beautiful sunflowers just outside of our village for over a week now, but it somehow hasn’t happened. So whilst out on his morning bread run he pulled in and did it himself.
They’re unfortunately just past their best now, but it was a very sleepy Sunday, so maybe they were just resting their heads a little bit longer.
A field of sunflowers always makes me smile.
Deep purple
One of our guests was celebrating their birthday this weekend, so any excuse for me to fill the house with flowers.
I’d bought some beautiful long stemmed irises, which were a gorgeous deep purple colour.
I then asked for a mélange, I just love that word, it means mixture, so the flower lady carefully picked me out an assorted bunch. She was not phased though that by this time the queue of shoppers behind me was building. Not that they minded either, merrily chattering away catching up on the gossip.
For me, I just smile, pay my ten euros and thank the flower lady for my now fully laden arms.
I’ve managed to put vases in both bedrooms, the landing, salle à manger and salon, all absolutely delightful.
Know your onions
The garlic lady was at the market this morning, so I bought a bunch, along with some shallots. I’m making a tomato and goats cheese tart for dinner tomorrow, so it will be nice to use some fresh shallots, and I always need garlic.
I also bought some super fresh ingredients for a ratatouille. I’m really looking forward to making that, such a fresh and fragrant dish.
Gifted
The other day we had a wonderful gift arrive by post.
A very dear guest had read my blog about our local pétanque contest and mentioned that a friend of theirs had written a book on the game. Then one morning we received a parcel, and on opening it found that they had very kindly sent us a copy.
It is such a lovely book, filled with interesting information and so beautifully illustrated. It’s something we will be able to share with our guests, as pétanque is such an iconic pastime here.
So unexpected, and a delight to receive.
Inspiration
Yesterday we were invited to view the art of an international school that had been staying, for the last couple of weeks, at the chateau in Mussy.
There were two groups, one group were there learning French, and the other to draw from life and to produce other works. At last nights event the two groups came together for the evening. The language students showed us around, practicing their french, and explaining to us what they had been doing for the last couple of weeks. The artists mingled amongst the visitors, getting involved where they could.
It was good for our french language learning, as they spoke quite slowly, which gave us a chance to keep up with them.
The artworks were really superb, for such young artists. They had used a mixture of pencils, water colour and ink, and taken lots of inspiration from the places they had visited. It was a lovely presentation.
Top table
In general, if there is painting to be done it’s me that does it, as it’s not a favourite job of Brian’s, and I find it quite relaxing. However, whilst I was in the UK he took on the task of painting the table we’d been working on. I had managed to get a couple of coats on the underneath but it did need a lot more work.
We used a cream, smooth finish Hammerite paint, which can be used over rust. It is a little difficult to spread, but it works well with care. I just love how the colour helps bring out the design of the legs, and Brian achieved a perfect finish on the table top. We were both so pleased with how it’s turned out.
Originally we’d positioned it in front of the bench overlooking the vineyards, this is often used as a breakfast area or later in the day for drinks. But I actually think it worked better swapping it with our round table we use for lunch or dinner.
Yesterday it was not too hot outside so we were able to enjoy lunch with friends under the umbrella.
We won!
It’s less than ten days before ‘La route du Champagne en fête’, our grand regional festival. It’s a superb event held every year in the villages across the Aube – the southern Champagne area. This year it’s in Celles-sur-Ource, the only village that is able to host it entirely themselves, as they have so many Champagne producers.
And if that isn’t exciting enough, yesterday I found out we’d won two tickets! We needed to collect them in person, so off we went to the tourist office in Bar-sur-Seine. Neither of us could quite believe it, a very pleasant surprise!
You can buy tickets for the festival now from the tourist offices in Bar-sur-Seine or Bar-sur-Aube for 30 euros each. You get a decorated tasting glass to use during the weekend and to keep as a souvenir, and a booklet with tasting tickets which is for the whole weekend, and allows the tasting of around 20 Champagnes.
Glow bug
Last night as we were enjoying the end of our evening with our guests, I noticed a small light on the gravel behind Brian. I didn’t say anything at first, thinking it was just something shiny that had fallen on the floor, and I’d pick it up in a minute. But it did seem very bright, so I mentioned it. ‘What’s that glowing behind your chair?’ Instantly Brian was interested. He got up to take a closer look. ‘Wow, it’s a beetle. A glow beetle!’
Oooh! What a strange little thing it was, and so bright. We’ve never seen one here before. I wonder if we will start to see them more often.