My name is Jo, and in 2020 I moved to France with my husband, Brian. From our move to France, to running our B&B, my blog, which you can read below, is a diary of ‘Our French Adventure’. I share short stories about the Champagne region, and its people, and the life we have embraced here.
Troyes
Troyes is such a beautiful old city, familiarly known as le bouchon, as the city is shaped like a champagne cork.
It is full of beautiful old buildings, which are a photographers dream to wander around. We had driven there early, and didn’t quite feel confident about the parking sign, so we used one of the many car parks.
We had lots to do, we were mainly looking to buy a couple of wardrobes, or armoires, from either one of the depot ventes (secondhand warehouses). We managed to find one, which is really quirky, and needs a bit of work, but I know Brian will soon have it looking good. I did also buy a small, glass doored cupboard for my material in the atelier. I will show you how these work out later in the week, as they are being delivered tomorrow.
It was all thirsty work though, so we stopped off in the main square for a cup of hot chocolate.
Before heading home, I wanted to go to Ellen, the fabric shop we had discovered on our last trip. We had seen a sign, whilst driving into Troyes,that read, ‘liquidation destockage’. We thought ‘Oh no, they can’t be closing down!’, so we went to see if they were, and if so, was there any bargains. Of course they did, some fabrics were reduced to €3 / metre, previously €19.50 / metre. We had a good look and decided to make a few purchases. The board of trim, which Brian found in a ‘bargain bucket’, was €3 for around 7 metres of cream and 3 metres of green trim. I’m not sure what I will use it for, but it really was a bargain.
When we got to the till, Brian asked if they were closing after the liquidation ended on 15th December. ‘Oh no’, the lady said, ‘we will have new stock in the new year’. Hoorah!
When we came out it was getting dark, and the sky was turning mauve. The street lights had come on, and the buildings now had a warm glow, against the crisp, chilly evening air. We were now looking forward to getting home, and being in front of the fire.
Chablis
On Wednesday we took a drive to Chablis. It is just over an hour from us, travelling west into Burgundy. It’s the northern most wine producing area in that appellation, with fresh, fruity or mineral wines.
We arrived before lunch in Chablis so we went for a stroll around the narrow little streets, discovering little hidden architectural treasures that we hadn’t found before. It is an old, well established town with many old stone buildings and lots going on. I so enjoy roaming around the streets and discovering unique little shops, selling local produce whether it’s whicker baskets or handmade worktop cupboards, or truffles - as they have just come into season. The river meanders through the middle, and on a warm day there is a beautiful park to picnic in down by its banks. As it was a bit chilly for that we decided we would have lunch in one of the many small restaurants. It was all very relaxed and very tasty.
We came across this building which was previously an old monastery, where the monks would make their own Chablis.
After lunch it was time to try some Chablis. A favourite producer of ours is Jean-Marc Brocard, although his son, Julien Brocard, is also now producing wine. We stopped off at their shop in the centre of town for a very delightful tasting. Julian’s biodynamic wines were really interesting and definitely worth taking home.
After taking our wine back to the car we came across La Meulière, where we enjoyed another excellent tasting, and came away with a few more bottles to help stock the cellar.
All in all a really enjoyable day.
Pattern match
I made a start on the curtain for the front door today. It’s only one curtain but I am lining it with a brushed back material, which will be really warm. However it does mean there is lots of material to work with, and it really is quite heavy to handle. But this afternoon Brian helped me to pattern match the main material, and cut the lining to size. I am now ready to sew it all together at the weekend.
Neighbourly
Last night two of our neighbours from within the village, came round for apéro. It was a really nice evening, enjoying a glass or two of a local champagne, and learning about how their vines are doing. They are a grower, which means they grow grapes and sell them to a winemaker. Theirs are going to Moët and Chandon over the next couple of years.
It is such a great opportunity to practice our french, and they seem so patient with us, everyone always does, it’s like they want you to learn. They are also very supportive, telling us that our french is better than the last time they spoke with us, which is nice to have the affirmation - it’s all so neighbourly.
Odd jobs
We needed to be smart with our storage in the atelier. We had a fairly big pile of boots, which have always been a bit of a problem. It doesn’t help that we both have a pair of all terrain boots, summer boots and I think two lots of winter boots each! We decided to put up a rack of some sort to get them up off the floor, so Brian made a space saving rack for all our walking boots, tucked in around the stairwell, out of an old floorboard and a couple of hangars we had originally bought for the garden shed area. Job complete.
I decided that the hallway radiator needed painting. I actually like an old radiator to look old, so often have a reluctance to do too much to them. However this one was looking particularly old and dirty, even after I’d cleaned it two or three times. So I thought I’d see what a wash of white paint would look like on it. All I did was dip the brush in the white paint, then into a pot of water to thin it down. The effect meant the radiator still looked old and shabby, but was now looking cleaner. We both thought the result was exactly what it needed. Another job completed.
Painted grey
Today we finished painting the hallway. It was one of the first rooms we decorated when we first bought the house six years ago, so it did need a freshen up. We had also had some hot water pipes run along the wall, which were copper, so we decided to paint them grey like the walls.
We were both very pleased with the end result.
However we have now decided we need to change the light switches, and I’d like Brian to build a cover for some pipes to the right hand side of the radiator. But for now, as the curtain pole is now up (which is where this all started) I can make a start on the curtains.
With a twist
I enjoyed a morning of cooking, trying out some old faithfuls but with a twist. First I made a goats cheese and leek tart, this was a recipe that I have not made for a little while, which a friend reminded me of. Both Brian and I love leeks so it’s a great lunch time or supper dish.
The second dish is a roasted vegetable lasagne, although I say so myself it was delicious, so full of flavour. Really yummy on a chilly autumn evening.
The video is about 15 minutes long, so hopefully you have time to sit back and enjoy.
Une pile de bois
Another misty morning to start the day. Although it’s blue sky and sunshine now.
Charles and José dropped us some logs off first thing, which was great as the logs we had from the ash, which we had trimmed earlier in the year, were too green to be burning yet. They will need at least another 12 months before we can consider burning them, as they currently just have too much sap in them, and that is not good for the chimney.
It’s always good to see the wood store filled up again. I am looking forward to a lovely roaring fire tonight. But first we have a hallway to paint.
The glass shelf
It’s been a very misty start to the day. But we have a few things we’d like to get done, so after a breakfast of very fruity, homemade blackberry jam on hot buttered toast, accompanied by a delicious milky coffee, we will venture outside to prepare the barn for a log delivery tomorrow.
We are a bit behind on what we had planned, as we discovered a little challenge at the beginning of the week, which Brian has been addressing, amongst other jobs, during the last few days.
The video tells the story. It is about 14 minutes long, so sit down with a cuppa and I hope you enjoy it.
Seedy snack
I had bought a couple of pumpkins to have as some seasonal decoration in the fruit bowl. Then I decided to roast them off for some tasty winter soup. What I also thought I would try is to roast the seeds separately for a tasty snack.
First I needed to wash the pulp off the seeds, which I did by running them under a cold tap and pulling off the orange pulp. I then dried them off on some kitchen paper and scattered them onto a baking tray. Pouring over a few gluts of olive oil, salt and pepper, and some cumin and caraway seeds. I love those flavours, but you can use whatever you like. I then roasted them in an oven at 200°C for about 40 minutes. Just make sure you periodically give them a turn.
Once they cooled I put them into a glass jar. They’re delicious to nibble with a cold beer.
A simple job
When you start a job it seems to create many other jobs. I’m not sure why that is, it just does. The curtain at the front door, which we put up in winter to keep the cold winter chill out, was looking past its best. As it’s one of the first things guests see of the house in winter, we wanted to make a new one with more of an impact. I started by asking Brian if he could fix a new curtain rail up, as the old one was a bit sticky when you pulled it. A simple job you’d think, but it’s meant he has had to create some holders for the rail. The double doors reach right across the hallway, which doesn’t leave much room at the ends, and I wanted the curtain pole to reach as close as possible to both sides of the entrance hallway to help keep it warm.
To keep it looking like it belonged he wanted to soften the edges with a little architrave. He also wanted to add some coving around the ceiling, as it would make it look more finished. Which then raised the question, ‘why not put the ceiling rose up?’.
So now that’s all done, I need to paint the hallway, and then get on and finally make the curtain.
A nice day
The day started quietly reading the comments people had left on my blog. It’s great reading people’s reactions and thoughts on what we are up to, it really helps support us in what we are doing. Brian had made me a delicious cup of coffee to go with my chausson pommes, a very nice way to start the day.
It was beautifully bright and sunny, so I decided to spend some time in the garden planting some bulbs I’d bought. I have some little dwarf, blue irises that will be gorgeous in spring, similar to the ones Mum had planted last year. I thought I’d see if they would grow here in France, we shall just have to wait and see.
I also planted some small, bright pink gladiolus, and some mauve irises, and again it’s a ‘wait and see’ if they will grow.
La Toussaint
All Saints day is a public holiday in France, held on 1st November. It normally lands in the middle of the two week school half term break which this year runs from 23rd October to 8th November. La Toussaint is a day to celebrate all the saints, especially the lesser known ones. Many people in France will take time to visit cemeteries and decorate with fresh flowers the graves and memorials of deceased relatives. So all across France they are selling masses of chrysanthemum plants. Our local cemetery is looking extremely colourful, a real contrast against the grey stone and marble.
Four seasons
We have been here over a year now, and the seasons have come and gone. I’ve always loved spring as my favourite season, watching the bulbs coming into bloom and the plants starting to shoot. But looking through these picture taken from the point de vue overlooking our village I actually think, for the vineyards, autumn is one of the prettiest seasons. What do you think?
Autumn - l’automne
Winter - l’hiver
Spring - le printemps
Summer - l’été
Rhum night
Last night we went for a soirèe at le Jardin des Tonnelles - a favourite restaurant of ours in Bar-Sur-Seine.
They were hosting a rum tasting that was organised by ‘l’instant gourmet’, which is a lovely little shop, also in Bar-sur-Seine, where we buy our coffee beans. They also have various tasty treats which often tempt us, such as chocolates, chutneys, oils, vinegars, pasta, tea, biscuits and, of course, wines and spirits. They also prepare gorgeous looking hampers as gifts, selecting an assortment of scrumptious items from their shop.
I’d seen an advert for the rum evening on l’instant gourmet’s Instagram and had mentioned it to Brian whilst I was in the UK. So as a surprise he’d bought us a couple of tickets.
We got to try five rums on the night, which were paired with delicious morsels prepared by the restaurant.
It was a really enjoyable and informative evening, and we came away purchasing the Botran 18, a very moorish rum from Guatemala. If you would like to see our tasting notes for all five rums they are at the bottom of this blog.
TASTING NOTES
White Rum from Martinique – Bête à feu, 2 years
This had notes of truffle and banana, which didn’t really suit either of our palates, it was also 60°proof, so very strong. I kind of felt it was like a headache in a glass. We both agreed not one for us.
The second one was from the isle of Maurice – Chamarel VSOP
This had spent 4 years in the barrel and was a gorgeous amber colour. Initially on the nose you could smell coffee beans and honeyed caramel. The taste was warm and more rounded with a touch of caramel. It had a long and smooth taste. We found out that it was matured in Fût de chene - old cognac barrels, which gave it a hint of vanilla.
It felt like a summer Rum.
The third rum was Mc Explorer – 7 years
5 years in bourbon barrels then two years in a port barrel. Unlike the first two, which were 100% sugar cane, this one was a combination of two styles, French and English – which are made from molasses and sugar cane.
You could definitely taste the sweetness of the port, with toffee and almonds shining through. It also had a mild red tinge to it. It was super smooth, with a light burn, and malty after taste.
A winter or Christmas rum.
Then we tried Botran 18 – which followed the solera process, a process of moving the rum through stacked barrels
This was a golden amber colour, with a light aroma, a rum from Guatemala. We both thought it had a very well rounded flavour, full of Cocoa and honeycomb, with a much sweeter vanilla taste. It was aged in 4 different types of casks - bourbon, toasted bourbon, sherry and port. It was a combination of tastes we both enjoyed.
We felt this could be enjoyed as a very warming winter tipple.
Finally, we tried a Peruvian rum – La Maison du Rhum, the 4th batch of the year.
This had been laid in bourbon barrels for ten years, and was 48°. It really was quite a complex flavour of vanilla, chocolate and caramel, with a warm long finish. And once again had a very round smooth finish.
Top off!
After our Chambre d’hôte guests left this morning we decided we would head up to the pool to get it ready to be closed for winter. The sun was out, but it was a bit chilly, so I put my boots and winter down jacket on. I also took us some coffee and pastries to have for elevenses. When I got up there Brian had already started to clean the leaves off of the cover. We soon had it clean and pulled back so that I could start scooping the leaves out of the pool. It was really starting to warm up by this point. ‘Shall we stop for coffee?’, I suggested. I really didn’t need my down jacket, and I was now getting too hot in my sweatshirt.
When we started back on the final clean of the pool, I said, “It’s no good, I need to take this sweatshirt off, it’s boiling!”. Brian said, “Here take my t-shirt”.
We had gone up to the pool dressed for winter, and came down dressed for summer, who would believe it’s nearly November.
Leaves
Autumn is now in full flush. The colour variation in the leaves brings a warm glow to the mornings, and provides sunrises and sunsets with a warm, pink tinge.
The vineyards stretching throughout the valley, provide an ever changing palate of colour. We love taking a stroll up to the point de vue, never seeming to get tired of sitting and soaking in the panorama
The walk up there is a great way to get the blood moving. At the top a quiet sit down on the very purposely positioned bench, sitting quietly or chatting about what project we should look at next. Closing the pool up for winter is one of the things that has gone onto the list, the temperatures are cool enough now to get it done, so today we will start to prepare it.
Pressoria
We took a trip to Äy, in the northern Champagne area, to visit the recently opened Champagne experience called ‘Pressoria’. It is situated in an old pressing centre of the Champagne house Pommery on the edge of the town. We had scheduled our visit, via their website, for 11am. We left Viviers-sur-Artaut around 9am, which left us time to grab a coffee and a pain aux raisins before going in.
After being welcomed by the receptionist and getting your ‘tous anticovid’ checked, you are invited to start the tour. The first thing you see suggests that you forget everything you know about Champagne, use all your senses and immerse yourself in what’s to come.
The scene was set by introducing us to the history of how the chalk and limestone beds were formed, with a short cartoon styled video wall.
Next to this was a chalk installation to help set the scene and show the important bedrock that makes up the Champagne region.
There were a number of rooms dedicated to describing the complexity, and delicacy, in the growth of the vine in Champagne. I have to say I loved the touch sensitive floor, it sent roots off to find you wherever you moved. Great fun.
Sunset
Plateau de blu
We have been enjoying some beautiful clear days with bright, deep blue skies. The sunsets have been lighting up the already red and golden vines, creating some amazing views that shimmer as the sun sinks below the skyline.
The days are still warm, but the nights are starting to drop below zero, so today Brian took some time to drain the garden taps and hoses - winter is coming.