My name is Jo, and in 2020 I moved to France with my husband, Brian. From our move to France, to running our B&B, my blog, which you can read below, is a diary of ‘Our French Adventure’. I share short stories about the Champagne region, and its people, and the life we have embraced here.
Fitting in
Brian has finally achieved the colour he wanted in the wood beading. He is adding it to the kitchen cupboard to hide the strip of hue lights he will be putting up, so it was time to fix it all in place.
I was very pleasantly surprised as you really cannot tell the difference between the piece of wood he has added on, and the rest of the cupboard.
He does want to fill and sand the corner of the cupboard, where it’s a bit damaged, but that can wait until the new year now.
Light strip stuck on, controls placed on the wall, crikey I’m well and truly loving my new lights.
U hooked
There was a little job I wanted to redo this week, our curtain up at the front door had broken away from some of the curtain hooks. It hadn’t surprised me, as the curtain is really heavy, and I’d used plastic hooks with wooden rings. It was just not a strong combination. I’d bought some metal rings, metal curtain hooks and a metal ‘U’ hook to fix onto the curtain tape to strengthen the whole fixing.
I started by sewing on the ‘U’ hooks.
Brian then helped me hook in the curtain rings and attach them back up onto the pole.
We are super pleased in how much stronger everything is, and how much easier it is now to pull the curtain across. It saves a lot of drafts this time of year.
Champagne quiz 2023
Today we launched our 2023 Champagne quiz, just a little bit of fun for our blog, instagram and linkedIn followers. Last years quiz was really successful, and was enjoyed by hundreds of people keen to learn more about Champagne.
If you’d like to have a go yourself the link is below. It’s just 15 questions and takes about 5 minutes, so a perfect way to test your knowledge of one of the most delightful of drinks.
Christmas baubles
Yesterday we nipped back to Bayel to collect our glass Christmas baubles. I have to say I absolutely love them, and could easily go and make more now. Maybe we could do it again next year.
For now though I’m going to enjoy the two we made, the big question that needs answering though, is where shall we hang them?
Trimmings
Some weeks ago now we started on creating our handmade Christmas cards for this year. It was probably one of Brian’s more technical of designs. Which was a build of 4 Lino cuts to create the image of a champagne coupe.
The design, I thought, was gorgeous, although I had no real concept of what was needed to create it. That came over time, as he gradually explained to me what we needed to do, or rather what I needed to do with a scalpel, which was an awful lot of cutting!
Cutting done, we started the printing. The first layer didn’t work well, the paint was just not clear enough, so we ordered some liquid online to help add opacity to the paint.
A few days later, and we were back in business. First the yellow, then green, red and finally black. We then added a little ‘joyeuse Noël’ for a focal point.
I shall post the finished card just before Christmas.
One more stop
We drove up past plateau blu today, I find it quite irresistible to not stop, the view is always so stunning, it really doesn’t matter what time of year it is.
What I was also loving was the little Christmas scene they had displayed in the centre of the nearby village of Noé les Mallets, how delightful.
La grande swag
One little Christmas tradition we seem to have created for ourselves, since moving to France, is going out to collect foliage for our Christmas wreath, then returning to make it. I love being out in the open air and creating something beautiful from what we find around ourselves, it provides a real sense of home.
This year my friend was joining us for our greenery search, and after, she wanted to learn how to make her own wreath.
Hunting for the right materials can be a little perilous, but we soon had a good collection to take back. The brightest red berries are always the hardest ones to get to.
With all our greenery arranged around our dining table, I started by refreshing my wreath from last year and showing Sharon how to prepare the base for hers. I’d stripped all the old foliage off and added fresh moss where needed.
Brian wanted to make a swag, to go across the top of the gate. He always goes big, so I did need to give him a bit of a helping hand.
Once we had the moss bases on the wreaths we could start adding on the different pines, ivy, then finally the berries. They were all looking pretty good.
Brian went out to prepare some wire hooks to hang the swag, and put in a loop over the gate for the wreath.
We were all very pleased with the result. I’m actually really loving it against the shabby gate.
Boule de Noël
Today we were heading to Bayel, a small village about a 40 minute drive from us which was once famous for its glass and crystal factory - Cristellerie de Champagne. We were not quite sure what to expect, but I’d booked us onto a Christmas glass ball blowing workshop. We were each going to get the opportunity to blow our very own ‘boule de Noël’.
Sadly the glass factory, which had been producing items for over 350 years, closed its doors in 2016. Prior to this, in 1994, thanks to the volunteers of the Bayel Tourist Office, the Bayel Crystal Museum had been created. So through this small but delightful museum the glass and crystal creations live on. The museum is set over two floors, and details the tools and skills that are required to produce such unique pieces. There is a wonderful old film that is shown at the end of the museum tour which touches on the history and the wealth of industry this small village brought to this area of France.
Some of the finest pieces of glass are displayed within the museum, commissions from l’Orient Express, Cartier, Hermés and Fabergé being some of the most delicate and beautiful.
To help protect this important historic, cultural business it has been labeled a ‘Living Heritage Company’, recognising the glass factory for its talent and glassmaking know-how. Now the small team of professionals ensure their master craftsmenship is shared, and hosting these seasonal workshops is one way to do that.
As we stepped into the workshop area, the heat from the furnaces hit us.
We were first asked to choose our colours. Not as easy as I first thought, I wanted red, but there was about four different reds. I chose a darker red colour and Brian chose red and white, in a slightly brighter red.
Our part in the creation was to blow slow and steady down the long metal tube, I managed to achieve my ball in one long puff.
Brian took a few puffs. If you went to fast then the ball would be too big and the glass too thin, so it was all about a steady controlled exhale of air.
Once we had created the ball, then the glassmaker added a glass ring on the top to make it possible to hang.
They needed to cool slowly so we will go back next week to collect the finished articles.
Newsflash!
It’s arrived.
And what a great way to celebrate, finally we have both received our carte vitales, what a fabulous Christmas present.
And thank you Sharon for opening your bottle of Prieuré 1515
Christmas tree cheer
I was keen to go and buy our sapin – Christmas tree. I just love getting it decorated and enjoying having it in the house. We always buy it from the same place in a little village called Polisot. It’s usually packed with trees, but on this occasion they had almost sold out. Fortunately they had one the size we wanted, 2.8m. Brian grabbed it up, walked it over and proceeded to squeeze it into the car. It really only just fitted, along with a sawn log as a stand and a pile of pine branches to use around the house. The lady lets us take the branches for free, which I find so delightful.
We had moved the pew that normally sits in the salon into the hallway so that we had space for the tree to go there. It’s always fun trying to get it in the house, wondering whether this is the year we’ve finally bought one way too big!
We did need to cut the top of it to fit, which we’d told the lady selling it to us that we would need to do, and I think she thought ‘Why are they buying one so big?’ We always prefer to do it that way though, because we find the top 30cm or so are always a bit too stick-like.
With the tree in place ready to be decorated, and some classic Christmas songs playing, we thought a glass of bubbles was definitely in order.
It’s just magical decorating the tree at Christmas, it always brings me joy. Seeing all our beautiful decorations again that we have collected or been given over the years.
This year I’ve been collecting some crystals that have come from old chandeliers, I’ve repurposed them with some red string to hang from the tree, helping the little white lights glisten even more.
All it needs now is a few presents, I better start wrapping.
Festive spirit
The morning we left Amiens the snow had finally started to fall. We sat in the warmth of the hotel enjoying our breakfast together, chatting about our weekend and watching the streets outside slowly becoming white, full of snow, just beautiful.
Our friends were heading back to the UK, and we were driving across to Reims to meet another friend at the Christmas market there before heading home. It was about a two hour drive to Reims, then the same again to home, so a nice break in the journey.
The Reims Christmas market was huge, full of colour and excitement. They had lots of handcrafted items, and also food stalls, along with, of course, Champagne. We are, after all, in the capital of Champagne.
Such a wonderful way to get thoroughly into the festive spirit.
Les Orfèvres
The day in Amiens was wonderful, and for the evening we had chosen a restaurant where Brian and I had eaten before, and had enjoyed an equally wonderful meal, in fact, it had been an all round great experience. It’s always a bit tricky when you return to a restaurant, as you never quite know what it will be like, and we were also bringing friends, so the stakes were higher.
Things started well though, with a delicious array of amuse bouche.
We had plumped for the largest of the menu choices, along with a wine flight. The big question on all our minds though was whether we were going to make it to the end, knowing we had eight courses ahead of us.
The meal got started proper with a scallop served in a rich jus, which was super tasty. Then we had a smoked haddock ravioli, followed by a prawn mousse, and a piece of cod in a luscious white wine sauce.
Halfway in we then enjoyed a tartelette of leeks and truffle, with a Beaufort cheese sauce. A little more challenging for me was the pigeon, however it was cooked perfectly in a deep, rich, red wine jus.
Pre-dessert was a dark chocolate mousse, which was so light. This was followed by a prune compote with a herb ice-cream and a shard of lovage. Which was a very refreshing light palette cleanser to finish off our evening.
It was a very tasty and well presented meal, that lived up to our expectations, and was all the better for being shared with friends.
Light fantastic
Throughout December, at 7pm in front of the cathedral, the city of Amiens presents a rather spectacular son et lumière (sound and light show) projected onto the front facade of the cathedral. The show lasts for around 50 minutes, and is free to watch. But wrap up warm!
It starts with drapery being projected onto the whole facade of the cathedral, which gives it the appearance of a theatre. They then start to highlight the statues and carvings, bringing each of them to life in turn, the projection making them look as if they were moving. The circular centrepiece then turns into a mechanical sphere and starts to rotate. They then introduce vivid colours and it becomes an exciting, moving, graphical experience. All the time the music helps set the mood and pace of the show.
Finally they end with a kaleidoscope of colour and tricksy little illusions, a superb show against a spectacular building.
Journey to the centre of the earth
After a little pause for a warming cup of coffee we headed over towards the house of Jules Verne. Brian has fond memories of the most famous of Jules Verne’s stories, having often watched movies as a child of Journey to the centre of the Earth, Twenty thousand leagues under the sea and, of course, Around the world in eighty days. Sometimes when we visit brocantes he will find an old copy of a Jules Verne classic with a beautiful illustrated cover, and buy it if the price is right. So he was keen to see the writers home.
Jules Verne lived in Amiens for 34 years from 1871 to 1905. He lived as a tenant for 18 years of that time, between 1882 and 1900, in the Maison à la Tour, the house we visited.
There was a very comfortable, warm feeling about the home, I could see why he and his wife enjoyed living here.
The image above is his little study room where he often sat to write his books, and take a nap when he needed some time out.
Jules Verne was born on 8th February 1828 in Nantes, he died on 24th March 1905 in Amiens. Most of his novels were based in the period after 1850 and included the latest technology of the time, often adding his own creative spin or fantastical imaginings. A number of his novels have been made into colourful adventure films – one of my favourites is around the world in 80 days. I love the original with David Niven, and also the remake with Steve Coogan.
I’m not sure if it’s surprising or not, but Jules Verne is the second most translated author in the world, and the most translated in France.
We couldn’t help but buy two more of his books from the little shop in the foyer, these were of course french editions, part of a modern day set of reproductions based on the beautiful ones Brian buys in the brocantes.
Cathedral of Notre Dame, Amiens
Our hotel was right opposite Amiens cathedral of Notre Dame, so an ideal place to head for and start our day.
They started building the cathedral in 1220, and it took around 50 years to finish, which apparently is a remarkably short period of time for a Gothic cathedral. When you get up close, you can appreciate all the incredibly intricate carving and work that went into it, it’s a classic example of high gothic architecture. As you enter it, the enormity of the building is rather extraordinary, it’s height is breathtaking.
The builders were trying to maximize the internal dimensions to allow light to flood in, and also to appear like the building was reaching for the heavens. They certainly achieved it. I was also impressed with the level of small details they added at height throughout the cathedral, like the stonework garland that runs around the upper tier.
I wasn’t aware, before going there, that Amiens cathedral is the largest in France, at 200,000 cubic metres. It’s large enough to contain Notre Dame in Paris twice!
It has been listed as a UNESCO world heritage site since 1981.
Although Amiens Cathedral has lost a lot of its original stained glass, it is renowned for the quality, and quantity, of its early 13th-century gothic sculpture.
Much of its stained glass windows were removed to protect them during the world wars, although the church actually only suffered minor damage. But sadly, in 1920, some of the windows which were being stored in the workshop of a master glass maker for their protection were destroyed by a fire. The ones that did survive have been reinstated and are magnificent.
It’s such an exquisite building, and is well worth a visit.
Two boots please
In the evening in Amiens we walked over to the Saint Leu area, which is just behind the cathedral, near the Somme river. It’s a pretty little walk along cobbled streets, where you stumble across little artisan boutiques, like booksellers or art studios and brocantes.
After a bracing walk in the winter evening we settled in a cosy little bar for a pre dinner Christmas drink. The boys tried the ‘Bière de Noël’, that came in a very seasonal Santa boot. Dinner was a cheery time in a nearby restaurant after a couple of those!
Vin chaud
On Friday we arrived in Amiens for a weekend of meeting up with friends and visiting the Christmas market. After a short walk around a portion of the market our first stop was for a cup of warming vin chaud and a good catch up.
The Amiens Christmas market is the largest in northern France, and runs the length of the city centre, it’s quite a spectacle. At one end they had erected a huge big wheel, which I imagine had amazing views from the top, however it was very chilly even on the ground, and we all decided it was best not to go up. Phew, that saved me from having to play the vertigo card!
As we strolled along the main shopping strip, which is all pedestrianised, we could peruse the many stalls, as well as enjoying some of the wonderfully decorated doorways to the shops and restaurants. It was all beautifully festive.
The vin chaud stalls were a particular favourite, but we managed to resist the multitude of chocolate Santas.
Brian snuck off occasionally to buy a sneaky pressie I think, but I’ll have to wait and see.
Chocolate mountain
Christmas has definitely landed. This was the beautiful Christmas scene that greeted us at at a local hypermarché.
When we then walked further into the shop we were surrounded by piles and piles of chocolate, I don’t think I’ve ever seen so much in one place.
Frothy coffee
We are waking to some thick frosts across the garden, temperatures now dropping to around -4°c. So my morning coffee was particularly welcome, and it was also particularly frothy, just how I like it.
Just after coffee, our delivery of wood pellets arrived. We used to be a bit daunted by all of this task, ordering them, and getting them delivered but now we have no problem in contacting them and arranging a delivery. It’s all very straight forward.
And we had a pleasant surprise with this order as it was a little cheaper than our previous one. Hopefully that downward trend will continue.
Skirting around the edges
Our bedroom and bathroom are on the top floor, within the eaves of our house. The bathroom is quite spacious, with a freestanding roll top bath and large vintage pedestal sink.
In one corner there is an alcove which is, I admit, a bit messy at the moment, as I store towels along the wooden ledge. I’ve always felt it’s not a great use of the space.
So the plan is to build some shelving across this alcove to better store our towels. There are also a few gaps around the edge that are quite drafty in the winter months. So firstly Brian has added some additional insulation to help combat the drafts.
He has a piece of wood similar to the existing skirting he kept in his workshop, so he is using that to complete the line of the skirting before building a frame over it to fit the shelves to.
Obviously his trusty laser is being used to ensure everything is straight.
I’m quite excited to see it coming together, and although we are losing some space, I think it will be a much better use of the space we have.
