Un dimanche à la campagne

We started the day by visiting a pottery in Amance, where they had been making roof tiles and pots of all shapes and sizes since 1892. I can see that we will be returning here one day. We then headed for the fromagerie at Champ-sur-barse.

Outside they had set up a number of stalls. I visited the boulangere van and the plant stall and bought some bread made from locally milled flour and a small butternut squash plant, which I will plant somewhere in the garden amongst the flowers and shrubs. I’m loving mixing some fruit and veg amongst the flower borders.

We could also smell the smoky aroma of charcoal singed sausages cooking on a barbecue, so we went to investigate. As it was nearly lunch we decided to have an early snack washed down with some freshly pressed apple juice. All rather delicious.

The fromagerie was filled with delicious cheeses, most made on the premises, which we got to taste. The farm shop is well stocked with lots of locally produced food stuffs, yoghurts, jams, biscuits, sausages, wines, all very well presented, we will definitely be back.

Before we left we visited the cows that produce the milk for the fromagerie . There was a particularly friendly one who was definitely not camera shy. It was lovely to see them being well cared for and happy in their environment. Obviously why they produce such good milk and cheese.

We then headed off to another small village about 20 minutes away called Vougrey - we were visiting La Ferme des Abbesses. This was a farm that grows all their own cereals and seeds, which they then either milled into flour or pressed to produce oils. The by-product of the pressing was then sold as animal feed. It was fascinating understanding and getting to taste their produce. They produce three oils, sunflower oil - which can be used for cooking - and two salad oils. Chanvre, which we know as hemp, was very nutty in flavour and Cameline, quite an unusual and particular crop, which produces an oil that tastes of asparagus. We bought all three and I’m looking forward to using them, especially the salad oils.

Needless to say there was a champagne producer also there, so we sat in the garden overlooking the fields and enjoyed a very pleasant glass of champagne before heading home.

It was great to look at what we had bought on our travels throughout the day, and at no time had we been more than about 30 minutes from home. I loved seeing the farmers turning their raw food stuffs into saleable products on the farms, with such quality, passion and commitment driving their businesses. It was a great couple of days learning about the artisans and producers in the region, and we only scratched the surface. We will definitely be going back to buy more, and look forward to next years event, which apparently is normally in April.

But it’s saturday

This weekend 35 local sites opened their doors to welcome the public to view their businesses and the products of fellow artisans and producers. It was called ‘dimanche à la campagne’ - Sunday in the countryside. However some of the venues also opened on Saturday, so we thought we’d get a head start and visit a couple of the champagne producers. We started off in a small village the other side of Bar-sur-Aube called Colombe La Fosse, the producer was A. Viot et fils. We decided to try the rosé and the 100% chardonnay to accompany our bag of chips, it was a very pleasant start to the day. There were a number of other stalls selling various goodies and handmade items, the one I couldn’t resist was a stall selling locally grown strawberries.

We then headed towards Meurville, a much older village this side of Bar-sur-Aube. We were heading for champagne Cothias.

We were greeted with a big bonjour when we walked into the courtyard. There were a few people tasting the champagne, but there were also a few other stalls, one selling homemade soaps, a local artist displaying his paintings, one with locally produced jams and honey and something that caught my eye, a couple of ladies weaving homemade jewellery made from stainless steel wires. We watched them for a while making a bracelet, then started chatting to them and trying out our french. I quite liked the bracelets, and Brian suggested I tried one on. It fitted really well and was comfortable to wear, and we both really liked it, so when Brian said I should get it I did not take much persuading.

We then headed over for a champagne tasting. It was 3 euros for a coupe, so we had a glass each, and got to try 3 different champagnes, although Brian drank most as I was driving. They were well made wines, and we decided to purchase some. However before that, Jerome Cothias gave us a tour around his cellar. I love an opportunity of viewing cellars, you always learn something new. Jerome was especially keen to tell us about how long he leaves his wine to rest in the bottles and develop rich flavours. He was very calm, and that feeling came through in his wine production, along with the passion he has for his business. It is so good to see.

On leaving, I suggested to Brian we could drive up to a local view point, which we discovered had breathtaking views across the valley. We sat and enjoyed our picnic that I had brought under the shade of a chestnut tree, and took time to reflect on the wonderful day we had had, and having the opportunity to get out and experience more of our region. What would Sunday bring?

Blackbirds

M. et Mme Blackbird have had chicks, and it’s very nerve wracking. They both spend most of the day flying in and out of the nest with a mouth full of worms trying to keep them fed. Brian has been on stealth watch and managed to capture a few photo’s without disturbing them.

Aren’t they gorgeous. We can hear them chattering away when their mum and dad return to the nest to feed them. We think there are three, so they do have their work cut out.

I’ve been published

We had some really exciting news this afternoon, Zoe from French Entrée, a digital magazine about life in France and for people looking to buy property here, emailed me to let me know the article I had written and submitted to her has now been published. It tells the story of our move to France, and some of the challenges we have faced. I have posted the link here if you’d like to take a read.

I really enjoyed writing it, and hope you also enjoy reading it.

Backgammon

I have been pottering around in the garden today, trying to stay in the shade whilst doing a bit of weeding. I also prepared some rubbish to take to the tip which we planned to do at the end of the day. Brian was focused on finishing framing out the stud wall. He completed that, and started cutting the OSB (oriented strand board) to size. I think this is the same as chip board, but maybe a bit stronger.

He packed up around 4.30, and we took a trip to the tip, always great to clear some rubbish. When we got back, before dinner, we sat down and enjoyed a few games of backgammon and a couple of beers - we found a nice spot in the shade. It felt like a very rewarding day, and I think it always does after a tough days work that leaves you weary, but gives you time to reflect on what you’ve achieved.

France is open!

Today, France has moved into stage three of Macron’s four stage re-opening plan. Bars and restaurants can now serve food and drinks inside as well as out, tables are a maximum of 6 people, and if you are not seated at your table then you need to wear a mask. In fact you still need to wear a mask in all public indoor spaces and many outdoor venues. The curfew is extended to 11pm. All shops, cinemas and cultural sites are all now open, although some have strict capacity allowances, and booking can be necessary. And events of up to 5,000 are allowed but attendance is only with a health passport.

Travel to France

The French government have announced a traffic light system, which enables vaccinated people to travel. Green classified countries, which include the EU, Australia and New Zealand, and orange classified countries, which include the UK, US and Canada, can now travel to France for any reason, as long as you have been fully vaccinated with a vaccine approved by the European Medicines Agency, i.e. Pfizer, Moderna, AstraZeneca or Johnson & Johnson (Janssen). For double-dose vaccines you must wait at least two weeks after the final injection to travel. For single-dose vaccines you must wait at least four weeks after the vaccine to travel and proof of vaccination is required to be shown on arrival for both types. For orange designated countries you also need to show a negative COVID test taken within 48 hours of travel.

Non-vaccinated travellers, or those who have not completed their full vaccination, still need an essential reason to travel from orange designated countries.

Although the vaccination program got off to a slow start in France it is now working well, and vaccinations are now available to everyone over 18 years of age. Over 28 million people are now vaccinated with their first jab, and at least 50% of them have had their second jab. As from 15th June vaccination will be available to 12-18 year olds.

Early doors

Brian was keen to get started today. We cleared the area in the barn for him to work and organise his tools. It was also good to be working undercover in the coolness of the barn. He’d prepared the wood yesterday, so this morning it was about fixing all the elements together so he could then hang the door. Once again I was very impressed with his ability to create something that he’d never done before. Especially as the door is not the straightest one to hang as your first door.

It was quite hungry work, so we had an early lunch which gave Brian a chance to recharge his batteries and have a think about how to tackle a hatch he wants to add into the side panel for access to the wood pellet silo from the side.

Quiche from the local ‘traiteur’ with sweet tomatoes

It’s only a small thing, but we have noticed the pellets get stuck in the corners of the silo when they are getting low - so they need a bit of a prod. So after lunch he got out his box of metal treasure bits, and found just what he needed, some hinges and a latch which can be bolted shut. I found some hooks, which I can use in the laundry room.

Early delivery

Brian ran downstairs this morning as he heard the bell clanging at the front gate. Gedimat were delivering our wood.

He helped the driver unload it into the courtyard, then I wrote them a cheque for payment. I have written out more cheques since we arrived last July than I think I wrote in the UK in the last ten years. It’s still a very acceptable form of payment in France.

I was hopefully going to be able to finish the grouting in the atelier today, and having the wood delivered early meant Brian could start on the stud wall at the bottom of the stairs. He started by chalking a line on the floor and the wall by using his new favourite tool, the laser. He has found it saves him no end of time he would otherwise have spent measuring angles and levels.

Plodding on

Today whilst I was plodding on with the grouting Brian was outside preparing the old door he had found in the barn which he wants to use for the entrance door into the atelier. We were not keen to remove all the old paint, just where it was flaking. I love the layers of colours through the ages that start to appear.

He then needed to cut in a new piece of wood to strengthen where the lock and handle will go. And also fit three french style hinges to it. One half of these slot into the wooden door, the other half are screwed to the door frame. Then they slot into each other. Sounds easy enough!

Bagged it

They had forecast a thunderstorm today, so I had kind of expected it to be quite a dull day, however we woke to a gorgeous bright sunny morning. Brian decided to trim the laurel hedge before the sun came round to that part of the house, they were in need of a tidy up.

I decided as it was a beautiful morning I would pot up my planters at the front of the house and refresh my window boxes. When I’d planted the large cast iron planters previously, I’d used a couple of plastic pots inside them. But to be honest, that was never very successful. I found the pots didn’t fit great and they kept looking lopsided. So I came up with what I think is a much better method, and that is use a plastic bag as ‘the pot’. It means it fits perfectly to the size of the planter, I just made sure I put enough compost in to cover the bag.

The roses are all starting to come out now, it is so lovely to be able to see their full glory. The different shades of pinks look amazing. Unfortunately I do have a bit of greenfly and black spot, but I’m concerned about spraying because of our resident blackbird. Any ideas?

It’s a grout thing

Didn’t want you to think all we do is sit around drinking wine and enjoying the sun, although I have to say it is always very inviting. My days at the moment consist of grouting the atelier. It really is looking so good, far better than either of us imagined, but the grouting is taking a lot of time. Brian is preparing the door for the stud wall he is putting up to secure the atelier, so with some quiet time I am listening to a talking book, it’s been on my playlist for nearly four years now, so definitely time for me to listen to my girly choice.

There was a small distraction today, as Brian has also been giving the stone wall a straight edge to lay the floor up to. I like how he’s done this, it’s totally pulled the wall together, and given it a clean purposeful straight line.

Roses are red

Summer has arrived, and instead of by the fire the evenings are now spent in the garden listening to the birds chirping and the vignerons finishing up for the day. We are watching M. et Mme Blackbird disguising their flight path to and from their nest they have built in one of the rose trees. I’m desperate to go and have a peak, but also so conscious they need their privacy. So for now I will be resisting.

The roses all around the house are now coming into flower. This beautiful deep velvet red climber on the front of the house is looking stunning as it blushes with colour.

Our days are still busy with our many projects, but it’s so good in the evenings to relax and feel the warmth of the sun, and enjoy the life in the garden.

Dienville

Not one to pass up a visit to a car boot, we nipped out early yesterday morning to see if we could spot some bargains at one I’d noticed a short drive away. I came away with a couple of good purchases, an old copper pan, which I will probably use for flower arrangements, and a variety of cotton embroidered handkerchiefs - which I’m always on the look out for.

As it was nearly lunch time when we were leaving we thought we would go and explore one of the small villages by the lac d’orient, which we were not far from. We thought we may be able to find somewhere to have our coffee. We headed towards Dienville, which has a marina complex on the lake, it also has a very pleasant beach area which is bordered by lots of trees and picnic tables. So we parked up and enjoyed our impromptu picnic. It’s an interesting area to explore and has a choice of cafés, a creperie and small beach bar. It is only about 30 minutes from us.

Rumilly les vaudes

After we had visited the open garden, we took some time to enjoy the beautiful stone church which was being renovated. I had wanted to go inside, I love visiting churches, but unfortunately a sign stated that because of the renovations we were not allowed in.

We had just been chatting about the damaged stone carvings above the doors and were commenting that it would be great if they were to renovate them, when a very enthusiastic french man appeared and asked us if we were waiting to join the guided tour of the church. Before I could explain properly, he had picked up we were English, and told us to wait 30 seconds whilst he ran into the church. He returned with a sheet that had been translated into English as a guide for us. He told us we could then follow his small, private group inside. Perfect timing.

Once inside we could see the glorious stained glass windows that were lit up by the beautiful bright sunshine outside. The true marvel though was the ornately carved stone alter piece depicting the crucifixion. It was looking a little dusty, but that didn’t deter from the intricacy and dedication to detail that had gone into the work of art.

Our guide showed such energy on this rather unexpected tour of his village church, it was a real delight to experience such a welcome, and very memorable.

The princess and the pea

That was the theme for an open garden in a nearby village. We really didn’t know what to expect, but this was to be our first real day out for months so I was so excited to be going out. I had seen an advert in a local newsletter I subscribe to, and as it wasn’t too far away I thought it would make for an easy trip out

We started off with coffee at the market in Bar-sur-Seine, then tapped Rumilly-Les-Vaudes into the sat nav and off we headed. It was only 15 minutes away. The village was made up of some beautiful old historic buildings, they were mainly half timbered country houses, but the garden we were visiting was for a slighter younger house, looking very inviting with its bunting and open gate. You entered via a path along the side of the house, which opened into a rather fairy tale like garden.

It couldn’t have been a more perfect day out

Here comes the sun

Now that’s the sort of forecast I like to see.

I thought as we have a few days of full sun, I would pick a few of the peonies and bring them into the cool of the house to hopefully extend their life a bit. I also picked a few wild flowers from the garden for a very natural looking bouquet. The space I have in the laundry room is a delight to use for flowers, as it’s much cooler and I have my clippers and all I need at hand.

We then decided it was the perfect day to clear the river of weed. This is the river Artaut, which flows just outside our house. We have a responsibility to clear the weed from our bit. If we then just leave it on the side of the road outside, Richard our commune gardener will then clear it away.

I normally leave this job to Brian as he will often have some very ‘willing’ helpers to support him in this task, but this year I felt I had no excuse and needed to get in and help him out. The coolness of the crystal clear water was actually very refreshing on such a bright day, although I do think one of my wellies had sprung a leak!

Stoned

The work in l’atelier has been progressing well. I have finished washing down the stone as far as I can go. There is some above the staircase, but this is a bit precarious for me to do, so we will be doing this together at a later date. It will not affect us laying the floor so we do not mind leaving it.

Brian is working on the grouting, which really does take a lot of time, but it’s looking good so we are pleased with how that’s going.

The thing that has been stumping us is buying the wood for the stud wall he is going to build at the bottom of the stairs of l’atelier, and also the one in the laundry room to screen off the pipe work and electrical box.

Due to the pandemic, and warmer growing conditions in Scandinavia, there is a general shortage of wood and building products, so it has been quite difficult finding a shop or depot that has the wood we need in stock, and that can then deliver it to us. It’s too long or big to go in the car or trailer. One company quoted us 110 euros to deliver 50 euros worth of wood. So we have adapted our approach slightly, and although we are now buying more wood, we only have a 20 euro delivery charge, and we have all the wood we need for both projects. Hopefully that will be with us next week.

Hirondelle

We woke to beautiful sunshine yesterday, so I opened up the double doors to the front of the house and let the warm air sweep through. We had a real buzz in our step, keen to get on. Brian had already gone outside to set himself up for a day of grouting the stonework and I was just sorting a few bits out in the house. As I walked into the kitchen I was greeted by a beautiful, graceful ‘hirondelle’. I think it is either a house Martin or swallow, I’m not quite sure, hopefully someone will know. Either way it could not stay in the kitchen. I called Brian in to help out. Our initial thought was to steer him toward the front doors, but although he wasn’t panicked, there were a lot of obstacles to that route and success would be tricky, so instead we opened the windows in the kitchen and he happily swooped away.

I’m sure we will see him again, as he has a mate and they are looking to nest once more in the barn.

Missing

The days seem to flip flop between blue skies with fluffy white clouds, and grey skies with bursts of rain. Neither of which bring very warm temperatures, but always ignite a comment or two ‘it’s a wet grey day today’, ‘ the suns shining!’ or ‘It’s a blustery one’.

Today we are a fluffy white cloud day and are back in l’atelier. We are cleaning some more of the stone wall and Brian is replacing some missing stones where there are holes. It’s a case of measuring the hole, then going into the garden to see if he can find a stone that’s a suitable size to fit. Some of them he needs to trim, by chipping them away with a mallet and chisel, until they fit just right.

The stones are washing down really well, and we can see the true colours coming through. What we will then need to do is grout between the stones with lime mortar, this will help reduce any drafts that may occur through the holes, but will also help secure any loose stonework. It will also look more attractive. I love the way the stone and lime mortar complement each other.

We have both found it a bit difficult to motivate ourselves this last week, I’m not sure if it’s been the weather, the coolness in the air, maybe the haphazard storage we are living with, or just maybe that we are missing people. All we know is it will change very soon, so we are focussed on bright, clear, cheerful days ahead.

Cleaning up

Finally we have been able to move my washing machines and dryers into the laundry room. The newly cemented floor has had two coats of floor paint on it, making it feel clean like a laundry area should. We have also moved a fridge freezer in that was no longer needed in the kitchen. When we moved here we brought our American style fridge from Kent, and the one we did have here we ended up storing in the salle a manger. It wasn’t ideal, it was just a tall white reminder that we had a lot of work to get done before I would feel truly comfortable in our new home. In fact, the house feels like one of those games when you were a kid, where you used to have to move the squares around to reform the picture. We are finally beginning to see the picture, and once we get the atelier finished and made secure (we do need to fit a stud wall at the bottom of the stairs) we will be able to move some furniture from the house into it, which we’d also brought from Kent. Lately the storage has been proving quite haphazard, and not great for my brain to work with, so it will be good to get fully organised. Soon…