Réaut – part two

Back at his cellar Alexander Réaut explained how the work in the vineyard enhances his grapes, the rich earth giving the vines the environment they need to produce concentrated fruit. The living soil retaining water, and encouraging natural competition, which in turn encourages the vines to dig deeper and release the mineral deposits found deep in the bedrock.

His cellar was also designed with the environment in mind. Built into the side of the quarry, its temperature, and humidity, are controlled by the passive action of the surrounding hillside and an exposed hole at the back of the cellar that allows moisture to rise from a small cave below.

The cellar contains 300,000 bottles, of which 25,000 are carefully chosen for release each year. The others are frequently tasted, over periods of 24 months to 10–12 years, to monitor the quality, before they are also ready for consumption.

Finally, the tasting. His Tradition and Rosé were clear, well crafted Champagnes, but it’s in his Émeraude, ‘Merci nature’ and Prestige that his methods truly shine through. These Champagnes, low in sulfites, had rich, heady aromas and flavours of peach, pineapple and honey, concentrated, and never tainted by too much oxidation. We were very excited to discover this little hidden gem, and we couldn’t help but bring a few bottles home with us.

Alexander’s love for his work is infectious and helps make his Champagnes even more magical.